Dali

See the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Monastery in the morning, and add the Cangshan cable car and the Zhonghe trail for views over the valley and the lake. Walk the quieter old-town alleys in the afternoon.

Spend a morning in Xizhou, among old family compounds and the produce market, then follow Erhai's western shore on foot or by electric cart.

Sit for Bai three-course tea in a courtyard: bitter first, then sweet, then aftertaste. Watch tie-dye cloth being folded and dyed at a working table, and ask before you take photos.

See indigo dyeing at a working craft workshop in Zhoucheng, then keep the afternoon free for a lakeside teahouse.

If you are in town the week of the Dali March Fair, a living Bai festival, go along. Check the dates and times locally.

From Kunming: high-speed train from Kunming or Kunming South, about two to two and a half hours; confirm times when you book. Express coaches also run.

By air: Dali Airport (DLU) has domestic flights. For an international flight, go back to Kunming by high-speed train.

Around the lake: walk or take an electric cart along the western shore; use a car for the longer hops between villages.

The old walled town. Stone lanes for an evening walk, close to the tea courtyards.

The western lake shore. Quieter, by Erhai, with Xizhou and the shore path nearby.

Altitude: Dali sits at a mild altitude, so it is an easy first stop in Yunnan after a long flight.

Paying: set up Alipay for foreigners before you go (no Chinese bank card needed) and pay by QR code where it is accepted. Some older tea rooms still take cash. Menus and price boards are often in Chinese only, so point or ask for help.

Prices: courtyards and workshops post the day's price on a board; check it before you sit down.

Erhai Lake: the lake is protected by its own local ordinance, so keep to the shore paths and follow the posted rules.

Weather: winter days are sunny, nights are cold. Sightsee outdoors in daylight and bring a warm layer for the evening.

Kunming. Yunnan's capital, for a gentle start after a long flight: Green Lake, tea markets and the provincial museum.

Lijiang. A different town with its own Naxi crafts and canals; keep it as its own stop.

Shangri-La. With more days, continue from Dali through Lijiang to the higher ground around Shangri-La.