Yangshuo

Arrive by the Li River boat from Guilin, past limestone peaks that rise straight from the water. The view is the one printed on the 20-yuan banknote. The boat docks near Yangshuo in the early afternoon.

Drift down the Yulong River on a two-seat bamboo raft, with peaks on both banks. The raft is poled over low stone weirs, so expect some splash and pack something waterproof. Go in morning mist or late warm light rather than at noon.

Ride through the countryside on quiet paths, past rice paddies and the centuries-old Fuli Bridge. You can use a bike, a light electric scooter or an electric cart.

Climb the paved path at Moon Hill, south of town, to the platform under its natural arch, for a view over a sea of karst peaks.

By air or rail, go via Guilin. It has direct high-speed trains to Hong Kong, Guangzhou, Shenzhen and Chengdu, and frequent flights to Shanghai and Beijing. From Guilin Liangjiang airport or Guilin station, Yangshuo is about 70 to 90 minutes by expressway.

By rail: Yangshuo has its own station, and Guilin, Guilin North and Guilin West have high-speed services to major cities. Confirm which station your ticket uses.

By bus or boat: buses run from Guilin's bus stations to Yangshuo town, Yangdi and Xingping, or take the Li River cruise. Check times when you book.

Yangshuo town. Where most visitors stay, close to the Li River banks, West Street and the Yulong River.

Xingping. A river town in the north of the county, if that stretch of the Li River is your focus.

Li River tickets: cruise and raft tickets are sold through the WeChat service account "Li River Ticket Office", so set up WeChat before you arrive. Check cruise times and durations on the official pages.

Yulong rafts: check the pier notice on the day, and the price and booking channel on the official park or county notice. Carry the passport that ticket and raft counters ask you to match.

Paying: pay by QR code. Set up Alipay for foreigners before you arrive; you do not need a Chinese bank card, and some counters still take cash.

Entry: Guangxi is in China's 240-hour visa-free transit scheme, and the permitted area covers Guilin. Your whole trip must fit inside the 10 days; read the rules before you book.

Guilin. The gateway city upriver, for a bowl of Guilin rice noodles and a Gui opera evening if one is on.

Guangzhou or Hong Kong. A slower stretch after the big cities, on a longer first trip.