Guilin

Cruise the Li River between limestone towers and cone-shaped hills. The classic route runs one way from Mopanshan (Zhujiang) pier down to Yangshuo; a return trip also runs from Yangshuo to Yangdi. Keep the cruise day free of other fixed plans.

Around Yangshuo, drift down the quieter Yulong River on a bamboo raft, with peaks on both banks. Go in the morning mist or late light rather than at noon.

At Xingping, find the river view printed on the 20-yuan note. It is popular, so expect company.

Eat Guilin rice noodles for breakfast or lunch: fresh rice noodles with braised meats, a spiced brine and toppings. Walk into a noodle room, point at a bowl, and choose a heat you can eat. Check spice and allergens when you order.

By air: Guilin Liangjiang International Airport is about 28 km from the city centre, with shuttle buses, taxis and ride-hailing into town.

By train: high-speed trains run to Guilin from Guangzhou, Shenzhen and Hong Kong. Guilin has several stations (Guilin, Guilin North, Guilin West, Yangshuo), so check which one your ticket uses.

From Guangzhou, the high-speed train takes a few hours. Confirm the station names and journey time on 12306, China's official rail site, before you travel.

Between Guilin and Yangshuo: buses run from Guilin's bus stations to Yangshuo town, Yangdi and Xingping. Confirm which pier your cruise leaves from before you plan the transfer.

Guilin city. Simplest for arriving and leaving by air or train.

Yangshuo. For countryside evenings, with the Li River banks, West Street and the Yulong River close by.

Cruise tickets: Li River cruise and raft tickets are sold through the "Li River Ticket Office" WeChat service account, so set up WeChat before you arrive.

Passport: carry the passport you booked with. Ticket, boat and raft counters ask you to match it.

Paying: pay by QR code. Set up Alipay with your international card before you arrive; you do not need a Chinese bank card. Some counters still take cash.

Weather and water: rain can change the river quickly, and low water can change a cruise route. Before a long day on the water, check the weather and whether boats are running.

Entry: if you use China's 240-hour visa-free transit, Guilin is inside the covered area, but your whole China trip must fit in 10 days. Check that your passport qualifies before you book.

Coming from Hong Kong on the 240-hour policy: by land, cross only at West Kowloon station or the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge. Lo Wu and the other Shenzhen land crossings do not count. At West Kowloon you clear Hong Kong and mainland immigration before boarding. The process usually takes 30 to 45 minutes and can start 90 minutes before departure; checks close 30 minutes before.

Guangzhou. Cantonese food and a big city first, then the river. Five to eight days covers both.

Hong Kong. Fly into Hong Kong, then go by high-speed train via Guangzhou to Guilin, in about ten days.

Longji Rice Terraces. Stepped rice fields on the ridges above Longsheng, flooded in the water season and gold at harvest, on a longer trip. Guilin is the usual gateway.